Episode 4 in my saga of Painting DOOM, the Cacodemon. Flying monsters that shoot out psychic energy out through their mouths. On their own they are easy to dodge and kill but in groups or with other enemies in front of them, things can get messy… especially when they bite.
As I mentioned in part 1, I have already primed all of the models for DOOM so I’m going to skip that bit and jump straight into painting. I’ve used 4 brands of paints on this model Vallejo Game colour (VGC), Citadel (it’s from Games Workshop so I’ll call it GW), Army Painter (AP) and Minitaire (M). Feel free to use any brand of paints that you like ,I just went with what I happened to have on hand.
NB: always thin your paints. Almost none of my paints are used straight from the bottle. I always put a little on to my palette and if it’s not a wash or shade paint (it says so on the bottle) I thin it down with a little water.
Step 1: base coating
The first step in any painting is to block painting the base coat. You don’t have to do this across the whole model and can just focus on 1 part of the model at a time but I find it easier to do the whole model.
I started with Khorne Red (GW) on the armour bits. The eye I painted in Foul Green (VGC). All of the horns and teeth were given a coat of Mournfang Brown (GW). All of the skin was given a coat of Bugmans Glow (GW). For the parts on the back I tried something different. I wanted to blend in 2 colours. First I painted the bulby bits in Sick Blue (VGC) then the “brains” bit in Screamer Pink (GW) . I wet blended these.
There are various methods of wet blending I tried the following:
NB:I did not just drag it straight up. I dragged the paint from side to side to spread it around. This creates a smooth transition between the 2 colours.
Yes I know the plates on the head should have been red but I wanted it to look different. I also painted the tongue in Screamer Pink. (GW)
Step 2 Skin
To start with I gave the skin area a wash of Riekland Fleshshade (GW). Then I grabbed the wrong colour and proceeded to highlight the skin. Highlighting involves painting on slightly lighter colour in thin coats over the previously painted area. The trick is leaving some of the old colour showing in the deepest corners of the model.
I used Kislev Flesh (GW) to highlight the skin. This is normally my second highlight colour, not the first. The skin ended up looking rather stark. Since I wanted a pale looking fleshtone I decided to just run with it. I did give the skin a wash of Agaerax Earthshade (GW) to try to tone the colour down a bit.
Step 3 Wash
Since I was using the Agaerax I decided to run with it. I washed the spikes and the teeth with it too. Washes can take a while to dry so I moved on to the rest of the washes. For the eye I used Athonian Camoshade (GW), 2 coats. The red armour and pink brains received a wash of Carroburg Crimson (GW) while the blue bits was given a coat of Druchii Violet (GW) Then I gave the models about 20 min to dry.
Step 3 Armour
The red was looking very dark and needed some highlights but I wanted it to be subtle and stay dark. The focal point of the model was the face. So I mixed up a 50/50 mix of Khorne Red (GW) and Dragon Red (AP) and used that to highlight all of the red parts. If you want to make the armour stand out more you can add a 2nd highlight step of pure Dragon Red.
Step 4 Teeth and horns
These were my favourite parts to paint they really brought life to the model. First I highlighted all of the spikes/horns, plates on the head and the teeth with Zandri Dust (GW). The model was already looking pretty cool but as I wanted the face to draw attention I took the teeth a step further. I highlighted them again using Ushabti Bone (GW)
Step 5 Bains!!!!
This part was kind of tricky. I did not want to lose my blend but I wanted to make the colours pop a bit more. First I Emperor’s Children (GW) to paint over the veins running all over the “brains”.
Then I thinned done some Teclis Blue (GW), went a little further than normal when thinning this colour. I was looking to just tint the colour rather than painting a layer over the top. I used this to paint to glaze the blubs. A glaze is essentially thinned paint that it painted over a colour to tint it slightly. It’s another method of blending like wet blending. It allows the previous colour to show through and you can paint successive coats to darken the tint creating a smooth transition.
Step 6 Eyes
So my last attempt at Object Source Lighting was a flop. Practise makes perfect and I think I done really well here. OSL is essentially creating the glowing effect of a light source. In this case the eye of the Cacodemon.
First I painted the area around the model with a green wash. That was ok, I needed maybe 2-3 more coats of the wash to really make the colour pop. Luckily I remembered some paints that I bought over 2 months ago but I had not used it. Minitaire Ghost Tints these are essentially pre-mixed glazes. I found the container and pulled out the Green.
This I painted over the area that I thought light would fall. Next I repainted the eye using Foul Green (VCG) this brightened it up considerably. I used the same colour to paint little lines on the hard edges that I thought the light would catch on and reflect off of. This gave it a bit of an ethereal glow.
I do need to study reflections a bit more to get better at OSL but I’m really happy with the results.
Step 7 finishing up
The final steps (which you can see in the pic above) are my usual:
- Paint the base black
- Varnish the whole model with Anti-shine (AP)
I have been thinking about painting the bases but I’m feeling lazy.